News broke within the last week about two new Creative Director appointments. Haider Ackermann will take the helm at Tom Ford and Sarah Burton will step into the role at Givenchy. Dare I say in this era of sameness and lack of imagination, fashion is *fingers crossed* about to be exciting again.
Since Tom Ford’s exit from his eponymous line in 2023, the brand seemed to simply recycle to the styling cue his iconic and very oft-photographed collections at Gucci. As I said after seeing Peter Hawkings debut, “it looks identical to 90s Gucci and Tom Ford did it better then.” A new appointment offers the opportunity for a fresh interpretation of a fashion house’s codes and customs and is not meant to put forth a tired retelling of what, in its time, was revolutionary. Perhaps because of his history with Tom Ford [Hawkings was there from the brand’s launch in 2005], his talent simply got lost amidst the fabric. You may recall the successors at Gucci (John Ray, Alessandra Facchinetti and Frida GIannini) also struggled tremendously to cast their visions onto the collections and have influence the way Ford did.
Why then, do I think Haider Ackermann is up to this challenge? Well, the man’s a genius tailor whose aesthetic is sensual and sophisticated. And, just last year Ackermann sent out a couture collection at Jean Paul Gaultier that was stunning.
To quote Tom Ford, “I find both his womenswear and menswear equally compelling. He is an incredible colorist, his tailoring is sharp, and above all he is modern. We share many of the same historical references, and I could not be more excited to see what he does with the brand.” I echo that sentiment and am looking forward to a runway where the clothes are structured and fluid with nods to 60s & 70s…I’m thinking ensembles that are part James Bond and part Domino.
And with Givenchy, it’s a callback you might not even know if fashion history isn’t your thing. Sarah Burton was Lee McQueen’s right hand woman, the same McQueen who was Chief Designer at Givenchy from 1996 to 2001. Burton’s moody and gothic romanticism seems to already be more welcome at the French fashion house than McQueen’s l’enfant terrible ways.
Over her years at McQueen, she made punk a little posher and added softness with ruffle flourishes and petal embellishments so I imagine if she touches on any of the McQueen influences, it will be with a refined hand. I am curious to see if her debut and future collections will reference Galliano’s opulence or Riccardo Tisci’s street vibe or Claire Waight Keller’s demure sensibilities.
Regardless, I’m looking forward to seeing what Burton will establish as her own legacy at a storied French house. As Burton herself said, “I am so excited to be able to write the next chapter in the story of this iconic house and to bring to Givenchy my own vision, sensibility and beliefs.”
Both debut collections will show in 2025.
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